Reimagining Michael: The Fashion Journey to Resurrect Jackson's World | Vanity Fair

Two things can be true. Michael Jackson was the King of Pop, and he was also complicated. After a series of delays and even additional edits, the highly anticipated biopic Michael debuts in theaters to add more color to the American dynasty that is the Jackson family. The movie introduces you to a younger Jackson and his brothers during their humble beginnings in Gary, Indiana, and brings you on their quest for fame in the music industry, also rushing you through the captivating journey Jackson had reinventing himself as a solo artist, experimenting with different sounds and messages through his lyrics, and becoming one of the greatest entertainers of our lifetime.

While the movie may stop short of his later career and accusations of child molestation (which he denied when he was alive), the costuming displayed is a full reminder of Jackson’s indelible impact on culture. Vanity Fair spoke with the costume designer for the movie, Marci Rodgers, who had the heavy task of recreating Jackson’s world through fashion. Rodgers, no stranger to working with real-life characters and fictional ones, was the costume designer for Till, Passing, BlacKkKlansman, Wu-Tang: An American Saga, and the TV series She’s Gotta Have It, to name just a few.

In Michael, Jaafar Jackson wears a replication of one of his uncle's all-time unforgettable looks, from when he took home 8 Grammy Awards in 1984 with his Thriller album.

Whether it was showing the singer as a young boy performing with his brothers in colorful ’70s attire on American Bandstand and The Ed Sullivan Show or including moments of Jackson maneuvering through crowds of passionate fans wearing an array of military-inspired jackets or plaid shirts, Rodgers did not miss key details in making you feel like you were watching Jackson himself.

One might think that when working on a film of this caliber, one could rely on dipping into the singer’s archive, but that was not the case here. Rodgers recreated everything. “From the socks to the gloves, I mean everything. Essentially, what Jaafar [Jackson] put on would be no different from the day that Michael Jackson put on that garment. I studied the research. I would literally compare not just what was in my book, but I also had old archives of Jet magazines. Any and everything that I could find at the time that might have had a clear picture of Michael and his brothers that would inform my final decision when it came to recreating all of the garments.”

Marci Rodgers told Vanity Fair, “the devil is in the details,” when recreating every single look for the movie.

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.

Vanity Fair: What did it feel like to get the call to do costume design for Michael?

Marci Rodgers: Taking a step back, I remember when I was a graduate student at University of Maryland, I remember then saying that I was going to costume-design a movie on Emmett Till. During that moment, I believe I was doing a play in Atlanta on Nina Simone. And that’s when I came across the book [The] King of Style, which describes and basically walks through the looks of Michael Jackson’s wardrobe, and [said] to myself, I’m going to costume-design a movie on Michael Jackson. That was maybe five to seven years ago. Fast-forward, so when I got the call to do Michael, I was outside of my parents’ home in Illinois. First, I had a moment [to myself], and then the way that I announced it to my family was, I actually didn’t tell them right away, but I ordered Michael Jackson T-shirts and gave the shirts to them.

And I’m sure they were extremely excited?

To be honest, I don’t know. [Laughs] I think they were. My family kind of has a second degree of separation, because my father grew up in Gary. So a lot of my trajectory in film, it’s all kismet. So of course they were excited, and then it was time to focus and really dive into the research, which was my first step.

The Jackson brothers, as depicted in Michael, in futuristic fashion during their Victory tour in 1984 after Michael's Pepsi commercial accident.

Do you have a favorite part of your entire process?

I believe that for Michael, his life was extremely public, making it very interesting to analyze photos or styles of Michael. However, attention to detail is crucial. My research book spanned over 800 pages, so it was not a simple Google search for photos. I delved deep into the details. I not only did that, but I also physically visited as many places as possible to see his clothing up close, in order to feel the texture of the fabrics, like the Thriller jacket. I examined the texture and fabric used in the Bad jacket. I had a measuring tape and meticulously measured the buckles and rhinestones of the socks. As a dedicated Michael Jackson fan, my goal was to accurately replicate certain aspects from an artist's and costume designer's perspective based on available fabrics and materials while filming.

Do you keep these books after finishing your projects?

Yes and no. I usually keep a copy or a digital version.

This process seems very special and highlights the intricate nature of costume design that many might overlook.

I think especially for this project. When discussing Michael, he had different style phases. There was the Jackson 5 era, followed by his '60s, '70s, and '80s versions of himself.

Michael debuted his iconic moonwalk dance on March 25, 1983, during the TV special Motown 25: Yesterday, Today, Forever. His nephew, Jaafar Jackson, recreated the scene.

The transition from Off the Wall to Thriller is entirely different.

Exactly. After the Pepsi commercial, there was a significant change in him, leading to the Bad era. Attention to detail was crucial for that.

Where did you visit to see his clothing?

We visited the Grammy Museum in Los Angeles and the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame museum in Cleveland.

There are numerous ways to research Michael, but how did you connect with the people around him?

Throughout his life, Michael was often seen with someone by his side. As a child, he was with his family and later with key figures like Bill Bray, his security guard. The film reflects these integral characters with photographic evidence.

Colman Domingo depicted the controversial Joe Jackson, father to the Jackson family.

Did you collaborate with the family during this process? Was any of the brothers a reference point?

Jaafar was a valuable resource in the process and embodied his uncle's essence.

Is it intimidating to ensure accuracy when working with real individuals compared to fictional characters?

My focus is always on maintaining the integrity of the design, whether it involves living or deceased individuals. Accuracy is essential, regardless of the character's background.

Who was your starting point in building this wardrobe?

There isn't necessarily a starting point. I immersed myself in research, zooming in and out to cover various eras and moments.

How do you begin creating the wardrobe for a project? Do you discuss the script with the director first?

I start by reading the script and then finding music that resonates with me or the character on an intuitive level.

Which of Michael's songs inspired you? What would be on your playlist?

"Rock With You," "Don't Stop 'Til You Get Enough," and of course, "Thriller."

'Cause this is thriller, thriller night…'

Did you have a favorite look?

I laugh because they’re, for the most part, all my favorites. The Jackson 5, ABC, Dick Clark. That moment, because I was able to go into the Hard Rock Hotel in Gary and actually go into the museum and look at their original pieces, which allowed me again to replicate and make the wardrobe for the movie. Then fast-forward to adult Michael, “Thriller” by far changed the fabric of music videos, truthfully. That was fun to recreate because I was actually very OCD with the idea of the zombies, because the zombies are the ones who became the world around Michael. I was very particular about Michael himself, and then [zooming] back out and then having the zombies almost exact. To see some of the zombies walking around the base camp in hair and makeup and wardrobe was magical. I had to be overly detailed. And then I think Bad plays an integral part to the idea of Michael that I knew as a teenager.

Tito, Marlon, Michael, Jackie, and Jermaine, also known as The Jackson 5 in Michael.

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