The Extensive Menu of Mr. Chow: A Delectable Variety

By Britt Hennemuth

Michael Chow, a restaurateur, painter, actor, and designer, views the world in vivid Technicolor. The masters in his universe are Hitchcock and Lean, and people like Ruscha, Newton, and Hockney are among his friends. Known for his impeccable precision, comedic jabs, and inexhaustible energy, Chow’s life is where "motherfucker" is seen as a term of affection and owning Hermès suits, Charvet socks, and George Cleverley shoes is a must.

Chow perceives life's happenings as prewritten scenes with his friends and loved ones enthusiastically playing various roles. His global empire of restaurants merges Eastern and Western cultures, transforming his eponymous hotspots into bustling hubs of cultural energy.

A couple of weeks before the premiere of the HBO documentary AKA Mr. Chow directed by Nick Hooker, Chow invited me over for lunch at his Beverly Hills restaurant. He discussed his life, his love for control, the future of his restaurant, and his plans for venturing into the fast-food business.

Getting to know Michael Chow was an exciting journey in itself. He started by switching the interview roles and asking about my height, humorously making the conversation feel more like a chat between friends rather than a formal interview.

In my conversations with him, I was amazed by the energy he exuded even at the age of 84. Despite his advanced age, he spends his days as if each one carries the vigor of a new morning, comparing himself to Laurence Olivier's character in Richard III. He also shared some insights into his busy mornings filled with calls to Dubai and other parts of the world.

We also discussed his childhood where he endured health problems like severe asthma. Despite these difficulties, he believes in destiny and sees his successful journey as part of his predestined path.

Upon his arrival in London, Asian men were stereotypically given two options for survival –either open a laundry or a restaurant. Despite these societal limitations, Chow chose his own path and has since been a champion of change.

Do you feel as if you've made no headway since you first came to London in the 1940s?

This closely depends on the environment you walk into. But yes, you inevitably notice this constant sensation.

You switched from trying your luck in acting to embrace the restaurant business, shaping some of the most sophisticated venues in the history of hospitality. Did you have an inherent knack for designing such spaces, or did you rely on a team?

The origin story takes us back to Shanghai. The city was quite decadent during those days. Hence, growing up in such an environment, I became aware of brands early on. An example - the sunglasses I used had to be Ray Ban. I can give you a particular scene from Hitchcock's Psycho to illustrate this - Janet Leigh sleeping in the car, with the sudden knock prompting her to see through the window and the American cop wearing Ray Ban glasses is revealed. This level of specificity extended to other things as well - the lighter had to be a Zippo, the jeans should be Levi’s with a 501 button. My entire life has been like that.

Do you keep everything in your memory? Or do you maintain collections, mood boards?

Everything gets stored here. [He points to his head]. My memory serves me well as I compile all these things. May I take a look at your socks?

Actually, I'm not wearing any socks today.

Well, that's another perspective altogether. But if you were to wear socks, they should be long.

Are you fond of high socks?

It's not about my liking. It is about what you should do. I don’t have any likes or dislikes. Everything in my life dictates me. Do you understand me? I'll provide you with everything. Do you know which is the most stylish shoelace?

Do share.

It's the one from Hermes, an inch broad and crafted out of silk. The butler is likely to take it out every morning, and iron it. There's nothing chicer than that. The shoes are specially made by George Cleverly. My suits are also tailor-made in Paris by Hermes. Ties, shirts, everything. Even the socks are Charvet. Everything is well thought out in my mind. This is what I contemplate over all day.

Responding to your upbringing, which of your parents has been the key influence on your taste and style?

Both my parents were perfect in their ways and they imparted some invaluable lessons. My father was an artist through and through while my mother was the most intelligent woman. They taught me different things and so I consider myself an amalgamation of the two. It's a part of my destiny, you see?

[Referring to a Warhol's art piece of his own portrait hanging over him] This charismatic young man in the painting, what can you tell us about him?

This stunning piece was created by none other than the iconic Andy Warhol. He called me one day to ask about my preferences for the portrait. I asked him to control the color and have an abundance of diamond dust. That's exactly what he did.

Would you mind detailing the history of each piece in this restaurant?

Just point out anything, and I'll share all the relevant information.

The checkered floor, what’s its story?

The floor is inspired by Valentino. His home boasted a checkered dance floor. In Hollywood's illustrious history, Rudolph Valentino is held in high regard. You can't hope to achieve anything chicer than that. Combine this with the Richard Smith painting, and you have a breathtaking ensemble. It has been 50 years since this establishment was first inaugurated. It had a transformational impact on the surroundings. The opening night was graced by the likes of Marvin Gaye, Olivia de Havilland, and Eartha Kitt.

Talking about the dining plates?

They're made by Cy Twombly. Nothing can get chicer than this, perhaps the queen might.

Our menus are also worth noteworthy attention. Made on handmade paper and bearing the Helmut Newton image. I've posed for Helmut eleven times around the globe. Thus, on one hand we've got Helmut, and on the other side either we have the portrait of me by David Hockney or Ed Ruscha. This is quite fashionable in itself. This was my initial idea and when I address this as "motherfucker", it becomes my catchphrase. People might object to this term and in such cases, I replace it with "beta blocker". So when I say beta blocker, it stands for motherfucker.

Moving on to the G-rated version now.

Where were we? Ah yes, the menus.

Billy Wilder is a cherished friend among a small list that includes Helmut Newton and Federico Fellini. Also worth mentioning is my bond with Francis Bacon. Surprisingly, many people find me unlikable. Anyway, that's a different conversation. Back to the topic at hand —

Menus.

Speaking of Billy Wilder.

Billy Wilder. Apologies.

Billy Wilder once said, 'Make subtlety obvious.' This is a profound concept and it's something I aspire to do.

Your ability to remember things isn't limited to art and design. There's a remarkable part in the documentary where you exhibit your unparalleled knowledge of cinematic history.

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That's not entirely accurate. Quentin Tarantino has a broader knowledge. As does Marty Scorsese, perhaps.

Well, given they're both directors that's to be expected. Your film knowledge is comparable to A Beautiful Mind. You're capable of reciting the opening shot of nearly every movie.

Correct, my talent is uniquely different. The highlight for me was attending my ex-wife Eva Chow's gala at the LACMA where I met Quentin. Our conversation took the form of a game based on the First Shot of a Movie. The movie he gave me was Rock Hudson's Magnificent Obsession, a relatively obscure film. I answered correctly to his surprise.

Your love for cinema and storytelling is evident. Why did you feel it was the right time to make your documentary?

My close friend, Lana Jacke, who previously worked with Warhol, expressed interest in making it. Consequently, we have lots of footage from when she followed me to China for two significant exhibitions and my father's 120th anniversary celebrations. Nick Hooker came on board later. Additionally, someone pointed out that the documentary isn't for me but for future generations. The subject matter spans two centuries revolving around the destiny of a father and son to bridge the US and China. My motivation is this harmonizing of cultures. It invigorates me.

Your artistic journey began in childhood when you painted. What prompted your return to painting under the alias M.?

My interest in art started with Beijing Opera. However, when I moved to London at 13, I discovered painting. Political situations led me into the restaurant business where painting wasn't a priority. I consider myself an artist and transformed the restaurant business into a theatrical experience that transcended the mundane. My primary artistic medium is paint, which I believe I've used more extensively than anyone else. Before me was Bacon. I pursue expressionism, a reflection of my father, a craft spun from injustice and pain. With my restaurant, I continued my theatrical journey alongside my painting where I explore pain.

Many have attempted to replicate your success in turning dining into theatre. Do you think anyone succeeded?

Cipriani is the only successful predecessor that comes to mind. They've created magic in Venice for 90 years, starting with Ernest Hemmingway as their clientele.

On the contrary, I revolutionized the entire scene. Every evening is a quest for a transcendent performance, a magical, poetic moment. I altered the DNA of luxury dining.

Do you think anyone else was successful in this domain after you?

No.

If I'm dining in New York, Los Angeles, or London, and don't dine at Mr. Chow, where would you recommend?

Have you tried Wiltons Restaurant on Jermyn Street in London?

Yes.

Specially their lunch. Their service, history, and attention to detail create a theatrical experience. Everything is top notch, from the way they present food to their mayonnaise in their dressed crab. In Los Angeles, I recommend Lawry's.

Lawry's Prime Rib? That's unexpected.

They have a unique charm. I'm drawn to such experiences.

And for New York?

Check out the bar at my friend Nobu Matsuhisa's on 62nd street. It's quite the standalone experience.

Having lived across the globe, what makes Los Angeles special for you?

I live in the movie world. In my head, I write scripts. Meeting you, I had set up the whole fucking thing already. Automatic pilot. Notice I'm eight minutes late. I want to know what I am walking into, you see? And I'm directing this movie, I'm trying to control this movie. Your reputation and things, I already knew. I wrote the script and I've tried to control the script.

What’s one movie everyone should watch?

For me, Visconti's Leopard is one. And Lawrence of Arabia is another.

What’s next for you and for Mr. Chow?

Recently, I realized why restaurateurs are not billionaires and yet the fashion world is full of them. Around 80 years ago, a man called Pietro Cardani went to Paris from Italy. The French are very snooty and said, 'Oh my God, you can't have a name like Pietro Cardani in fashion.' So he changed his name to Pierre Cardin. Why am I mentioning him? Because he, like Coca-Cola, when somebody said, 'Bottle it,” started making dresses in a factory instead of with 20 seamstresses. 1000 a day. Changed the whole fucking world.

So I woke up recently and decided it’s time now for the low end. Do you want to know what I’m going to name it? I’ll give it to you. O.O. to Go. O.O. To Go. Which is double O.

Like your glasses.

That's one reference. The other reference is ping pong, the bridging of east and West. Ping pong diplomacy. With O.O to Go, I have a chance to become a billionaire. I want to be a billionaire when I grow up, okay. I took care of the top end, now I'm going to go to the bottom, okay?

Do you have a menu?

I'm going to distill my food, my menu for the people. I'm going to hopefully contribute to the fast food industry and bring new technology in from Shanghai. I’m excited about it because I had the same feeling before I opened Mr. Chow. Start step by step, very modestly, as it were. A dam comes from one drop of water, kind of shit. Confucius. While I still have the energy to show the West how wonderful Chinese culture is through food. I'm doing the same thing again, but this time, on a mass level.

Anything else you want to talk about today?

Well, we didn't talk about sex, but that's okay. Everybody always laughs when I want to talk about sex.

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