"Essential Skincare Ingredients for Your Knowledge"

31 May 2023 1418
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We all desire radiant, healthy skin, but with so many skincare products and ingredients available, it can be tough to determine which ones are worth your investment. The key to choosing the right skincare ingredients is to consider your unique skin concerns. Fortunately, whether you want to address signs of aging, combat acne, or improve hydration levels, there is an ingredient that can help.

Here, we take a closer look at seven of the most effective and widely used skincare ingredients: retinoids, vitamin C, peptides, ceramides, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and AHAs. Each ingredient brings unique benefits and can be incorporated into your skincare routine in different ways. So, let's dive in and explore how these powerful skincare ingredients can transform your skin, according to scientific research and expert recommendations.

Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from vitamin A that are widely used in skincare. They offer numerous benefits, making them a common ingredient in anti-aging products. One of their primary advantages is their ability to stimulate metabolic processes within the skin, which increases cell turnover and promotes the growth of new cells. According to Valerie Aparovich, a certified cosmetologist-aesthetician, biochemist and team lead at OnSkin, retinoids "speed cell turnover and support collagen and elastin fiber synthesis, thus promoting smoother and firmer skin texture and making the signs of aging, like fine lines and wrinkles, less noticeable."

Retinoids also regulate sebum production, making them a great option for oily and combination skin types. Specifically, retinoids bind to specific receptors in skin cells, which increases cell turnover and prevents the buildup of dead skin cells and excess oil that can clog pores and lead to acne. In short, retinoids are highly effective for combating acne by reducing inflammation, preventing pore-clogging, and exfoliating dead skin cells.

It's important to note that there are several different forms of retinoids available, including retinol, tretinoin, tazarotene, adapalene, and plant-derived alternatives like bakuchiol. Bakuchiol is particularly suitable for sensitive skin and for use during pregnancy, unlike other forms of retinoids that are generally advised against by professionals during pregnancy. Aparovich recommends starting with one to two applications of retinoids per week to prevent dryness or irritation and advises using them only in your nighttime skincare routine, as they are UV-sensitive and may cause skin irritation when exposed to sunlight.

Although vitamin C is a crucial ingredient in your morning OJ, it also plays a critical role in maintaining healthy skin as a water-soluble vitamin. As a potent antioxidant abundant in human skin, vitamin C protects the skin from free radicals that can accelerate signs of aging, says Aparovich. This makes it an excellent choice for preventing premature signs of aging.

Regular use of vitamin C also promotes collagen synthesis, improving the skin's texture, firmness, and overall resilience. It can also brighten the skin, making your complexion more even and radiant. While generally safe for all skin types, including sensitive skin, it's important to note that allergies to vitamin C are possible. Store your vitamin C product in a cool, dark place to maximize its efficacy, advises Aparovich.

Peptides are amino acids that serve as the building blocks for protein in the skin. They help improve skin elasticity, support aging skin by promoting collagen production, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Peptides also enhance the skin's barrier, improving its ability to heal itself, while reducing inflammation and irritation.

If you're suffering from dry or dehydrated skin, peptides provide deep hydration. They are generally safe and effective and can easily be incorporated into your skincare routine by applying them after toner and before moisturizer, according to Aparovich.

Ceramides are lipids in the skin's outermost layer that promote a healthy barrier. They prevent water loss, locking in moisture to promote deep hydration and reduce flakiness and peeling, explains Aparovich. Ceramides also strengthen the skin's ability to defend itself against environmental stressors and improve compromised skin barriers.

As we age, our skin's natural ceramide levels decrease, leading to the development of fine lines and wrinkles. Ceramide-based products can help combat signs of aging by nourishing the skin with fatty molecules, improving its suppleness, resilience, and smoothness. Ceramides have also been found to ease the symptoms of eczema and psoriasis, conditions associated with weakened skin barriers and reduced immune response, Aparovich shares with Shape.

To reap the full benefits of this star ingredient, Aparovich suggests applying ceramide-rich products twice a day (in the morning and at night) after cleansing and toning your skin. The ideal time to use ceramides is right after a shower, as they work best when locking in extra moisture, she adds. For best results, it's recommended to layer ceramides with hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or collagen.

Speaking of hyaluronic acid, this key ingredient has gained and remained popular in skincare for many reasons. Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring humectant that attracts and retains water. In skin care specifically, this H2O magnet helps maintain healthy hydration levels and prevents water loss, providing immediate results. 

Similarly to ceramides, the production of hyaluronic acid decreases as we age, causing the skin to lose its volume, warns Aparovich. Incorporating hyaluronic acid into your skincare routine can help plump the skin and reduce the signs of aging.

Hyaluronic acid can be found in various skincare products, including cleansers and serums. Products should be selected based on individuals' preferences, adds Aparovich. Generally, topical products containing hyaluronic acid have no known side effects, but as with any new skincare ingredient or product you introduce to your skin, she says. It is recommended to conduct a patch test to ensure no individual allergic reactions.

Niacinamide, a derivative of vitamin B3, is a powerhouse ingredient that offers a wider range of benefits, including anti-aging and UV damage protection. Moreover, it is an excellent option for people with oily, acne-prone skin as it can regulate sebum production and reduce redness and inflammation. Niacinamide is also known to improve collagen synthesis, increase skin firmness and resilience, and fade hyperpigmentation.

Generally, niacinamide is suitable for most skin types. However, it is recommended to start with a lower concentration (5% or lower) for oily yet sensitive skin and a higher concentration (around 10%) for combination, acne-prone skin, says Aparovich. It's also worth noting that (like other water-soluble vitamins) your body doesn't store niacinamide, and you must receive it through your diet from animal sources, green veggies, and grains.

Short for alpha hydroxy acids, this group of acids is primarily derived from plant sources and acts as chemical exfoliants for the skin. The most common forms of AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, tartaric acid, and malic acid. In the skin care world, AHAs are known as superhero ingredients for removing dead skin cells, cleansing pores, and reducing sebum production, making them an excellent option for oily and acne-prone skin, explains Aparovich. AHAs can also brighten and even out skin tone and reduce acne scars on the skin surface (e.g., in chemical peels).

Using AHAs can have significant benefits for your skin, but it's essential to use them properly, notes Aparovich. For example, AHAs can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays, so it's best to use them at night and follow up with sunscreen during the day. It's also important to be mindful of the concentration and frequency of use, as overuse can cause peeling and redness, especially for those with sensitive or dry skin, Aparovich warns.

As you can see, knowing the right key ingredients to incorporate into your skincare routine is essential to maintaining your skin's health. These star ingredients offer unique benefits that address various skin concerns, from aging to hyperpigmentation. Regardless of the ingredient, it's important to follow the expert-recommended tips and be mindful of potential side effects. Also, when looking for a skincare routine catered to your individual needs, it's essential to consult with a professional.

 


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