Introducing Airwash by Guess: Reinventing Denim for the Next 40 Years
Guess Jeans made a comeback at Pitti this season by introducing its innovative Airwash concept and a large interactive display titled The Next 40 Years of Denim, with Nicolai Marciano leading the presentation. Dating back to the early 80s, Guess was a pioneer in the field of stone-washed and acid-dyed jeans, propelling their French-owned business to significant popularity in the United States. With the realization of the detrimental environmental impact associated with stone washing, the brand has transitioned to a new method named Airwash.
The brand was established by four French brothers, including Nicolai's father Paul, in an abandoned fish shop measuring 30 square meters in the southern port of Bandol in 1973. At Fortezza Da Basso, the central point of Pitti, an exhibition supported by Guess was held, in addition to off-site displays at Teatro Del Maggio, the newest theatre in Florence.
Guess Europe started in Florence back in 1993, marking the opening of the first European store in the Renaissance city. Fast forward three decades, and the brand is now showcasing an immersive exhibition that features relics from the past, like vintage stone washing barrels, the original triple-zip Marilyn jeans sold in Bloomingdales in 1981, and the denim jacket worn by Michael J. Fox in Back to the Future.
"Our objective is to honor our company's roots – the Californian lifestyle, denim, and product innovation. We revolutionized the denim industry 42 years ago by popularizing stone washed jeans globally, and now, four decades later, we are aiming to make a significant statement with our novel denim wash process,” said Nicolai while giving a tour of the exhibition.
The highlight of the installation, named “Stone to Air”, was the disclosure of the groundbreaking Guess AirwashTM technology. The brand claims that Airwash, which uses no stones or harmful chemicals, reduces water usage by 80% and saves energy. It effectively substitutes pumice stones with light and air.
The resulting jeans, showcased on large racks, had a remarkably smooth finish. Retailers and editors were also given the opportunity to have these jeans customized through the Jeanologia laser system. The exhibition also featured Guess' iconic ad campaigns displaying glamorous models such as Victoria Mazza, Claudia Schiffer, and Anna Nicole Smith.
This portrayal of women might seem slightly outdated in the current age of female empowerment, which means that customers might notice a subtle change in strategy when Guess launches the new Airwash jeans in June, hinted at by large panels showcasing Californian lifestyle images from the 90s.
"We're anticipating a new set of faces and a fresh chapter of imagery for the company that aligns with our brand DNA," stated Nicolai, who began working at Guess at 17 before completing high school.
Like many other brands, Guess experienced a significant blow from the pandemic, causing the closure of many of its retail stores due to the rising popularity of online shopping. Despite its current store count falling short of its historic high of 2,236 in 2014, the brand plans to open new denim-centric boutiques. Despite these challenges, Guess recorded a 4% increase in annual sales for the year ending October 28, 2023, reaching $2.70 billion.