Buckingham Palace to Host Grand Exhibition of Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe | Vanity Fair

From her first suit as a little girl of the English aristocracy to her latest pastel ensembles, Elizabeth II's wardrobe was never anodyne. For the first time, the Royal Collection Trust is bringing together some 200 pieces for the exhibition Queen Elizabeth II: Her Life in Style, scheduled for spring 2026 at Buckingham Palace's King's Gallery. A tribute that promises to be the most comprehensive ever devoted to the monarch's silhouette.

The event is as fashionable as it is historic, as the exhibition coincides with what would have been the 100th birthday of the sovereign, who passed away in 2022. 'This will be an opportunity to celebrate her unique British style and fashion heritage,' said Caroline de Guitaut, curator of the exhibition and curator of the King's works of art. Far from being a simple gallery of dresses, it's a journey through a life of state — and elegance — as seen through fabrics.

If style is a way of saying who you are without speaking, then Elizabeth II was without doubt the most eloquent monarch of her time. Behind every brooch, every color, every seam, there was a strategy. The Queen knew it; in a world saturated with images, clothing is a language. Thus the white dress with emerald green folds worn in Pakistan in 1961, an obvious nod to the national colors. Or the assertive choice of bright colors for her public engagements, because, as she used to say, “I have to be seen to be believed.”

Queen Elizabeth II's white dress with emerald green pleats, by Norman Hartnell.

Queen Elizabeth II's white dress with emerald green pleats, signed Norman Hartnell.

The exhibition will also feature her most emblematic ceremonial garments, such as her 1947 wedding dress and her coronation gown, both signed by Sir Norman Hartnell. The former, inspired by Botticelli's Primavera painting, features a bodice and flared skirt in satin studded with crystal pearls. While the neckline and long sleeves make the cut seem conventional, it stands out for the plurality of its embroidery, featuring roses, jasmine flowers and ears of wheat. A soft blend of silver thread flower garlands, delicate crystals and over 10,000 seed pearls imported from the USA.

Queen Elizabeth II's 1947 wedding gown by Norman Hartnell.

Princess Elizabeth and her husband Philip Mountbatten, Duke of Edinburgh, at their wedding on November 20, 1947.

The Queen called on Norman Hartnell again for her coronation, to design a dress in the same spirit. In the end, there were nine different versions of the dress. Elizabeth II opted for a satin model featuring floral emblems representing each country under her rule at the time.

Queen Elizabeth II's coronation gown by Norman Hartnell.

Queen Elizabeth II at her coronation ceremony, June 2, 1953.

In his autobiography Silver and Gold, Norman Hartnell talks about his creative moments. “My mind was teeming with heraldic and floral ideas. I thought of lilies, roses, daisies and golden corn; I thought of altar cloths and sacred vestments; I thought of heaven, earth, sun, moon, stars and everything celestial that could be embroidered on a dress destined to be historic.” The British couturier became his closest fashion collaborator for three decades. Together, they would shape the Queen's singular aesthetic, which would remain engraved in the collective memory. Among the other gems in the collection is a child's dress in lamé silver tulle, worn by the young Elizabeth at the age of 8, for the wedding of her uncle, the Duke of Kent. This 1934 relic marks one of the first milestones in a life spent under the eye of photographers. It was designed by Edward Molyneux, the great couturier of the time, and already embodies the almost obsessive attention paid to royal style.

The exhibition reveals for the first time the drawings, sketches, fabric samples and even handwritten correspondence between the mother of King Charles III and her couturiers. These documents confirm what we have long suspected: Her Majesty was not just a client, but also a true architect of her image. While the wedding and coronation dresses are expected to be the jewels of the exhibition, the King's Gallery also promises many surprises, including a selection of pieces never before shown to the public. Nearly half of the 200 garments on display will emerge from the royal storerooms for the first time: sumptuous evening gowns by Hardy Amies, flowing 1970s prints by Ian Thomas, and ensembles worn on state visits that testify to an ever-evolving fashion scene.

Evening dresses from the 1970s by Ian Thomas.

Hats, pumps, handbags, jewelry and accessories complete this impressive wardrobe, considered one of the most important fashion collections of the 20th century. The exhibition will also include the Queen's more utilitarian garments. Raincoats, boots and quilted vests will reveal another facet of her daily life. Fashion or not, Elizabeth II always had the right outfit for every occasion: 'Her distinctive style became instantly recognizable the world over, underpinning the British fashion industry and influencing generations of designers and couturiers,' explains Caroline de Guitaut.

Sketch of a dress designed for Queen Elizabeth II by fashion designer Ian Thomas. The dress was to be worn on the Queen's tour of China in 1986.

Sketch of a dress designed for Queen Elizabeth II, by fashion designer Ian Thomas. The dress was designed for the Queen's tour of Saudi Arabia in 1979.

The exhibition is also an opportunity to reaffirm the extent to which Elizabeth II was, throughout her 70-year reign, one of the greatest ambassadors of British fashion. By tirelessly supporting her favorite designers, she contributed to the success of the nation's fashion scene, while at the same time imposing a look that was unmistakably her own.

Originally published in Vanity Fair France

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