LVMH: Discussions, rumors, and fresh creative talent for the conglomerate's prestigious labels
News of an upcoming change in leadership at the illustrious LVMH group's luxury brand Givenchy, has triggered a wave of speculation about potential replacements for the departing creative director, Matthew M. Williams.
This and other possible directorial changes within LVMH's various labels have led industry watchers to anticipate some sort of reshuffling within the French luxury titan. It is suspected that more than one luxury brand under the LVMH umbrella, may come under new creative leadership soon, with Fendi being a key candidate.
LVMH's first test in 2024 will be to identify a designer who can breathe new life into the esteemed house of Givenchy.
Observers note that the Parisian brand has been struggling to regain its pre-pandemic revenue levels.
The fashion house underwent a significant shift in approach and style during the 12-year tenure of Riccardo Tisci (2006 to 2017), with a strong emphasis on menswear and streetwear.
However, Givenchy has struggled to establish a broad-based appeal in the years since. Williams' nearly four-year-long stint, after a three-year stint by Clare Waight-Keller, resulted in a confusing brand image, despite the brand's rich couture-chic heritage.
The fashion world is speculating whether LVMH Fashion Group's CEO, Sidney Toledano, will enlist a high-profile designer, a seasoned stylist already high in the fashion echelons, or an upcoming talent.
Sarah Burton, who formerly led Kering-owned brand Alexander McQueen, is a frontrunner for the role. Alongside Sarah, Christelle Kocher, a French designer renowned for her street couture aesthetic could be a potential candidate. Julien Dossena, currently creative director at Paco Rabanne, is also a rumoured contender.
In the realm of budding designers, London's Simone Rocha and Richard Quinn could be interesting choices. Adding to the speculation is Simon Porte Jacquemus, who has shown significant growth with his ready-to-wear label. Whether he will maintain his independence or consider the potentially tempting Givenchy offer remains uncertain.
The sudden opening at Givenchy could instigate leadership changes at other LVMH labels, most notably Fendi. Kim Jones' time at Fendi has not been viewed as successful inspiring speculation about his replacement. Silvia Venturini Fendi, a member of the Fendi family, and the current lead creative director for Fendi's menswear and women's accessories, is a potential successor.
Meanwhile, Alessandro Michele, formerly creative director for Gucci, is rumoured to be in the pipeline for a role at Fendi or Bulgari. Another potential opportunity for Michele could be the role of creative director at Christian Dior. With the shifting landscape and potential reshuffling within LVMH, this could be an opportunity for existing creative directors at the group's other labels to seek new challenges.
Jonathan Anderson, current creative director at Loewe, may be eyeing a more prestigious role. The situation at Louis Vuitton also promises potential changes with whispers about dissatisfaction between menswear creative director, Pharrell Williams, and womenswear creative director, Nicolas Ghesquière. Bernard Arnault's LVMH empire seems perpetually on the lookout for new creative talent.
Even brands, which are less pivotal in the group's portfolio, might be considering big-name creative directors. With plenty of surprises anticipated for LVMH in 2024, all eyes will be on how these changes will influence the direction of these luxury fashion brands.