Dermatologists' Opinion on Whether Lip Balm Can Lead to Dry and Chapped Lips

Could your lip balm be doing more damage than benefit?

In the chilly winter months, one is more likely to use moisturizers and lip balms because of the prevalence of dry skin.

However, not all products are created equally. Some lip balms may even aggravate dryness.

Shari Lipner, MD, PhD, a dermatologist at Weill Cornell Medicine, recommends caution while choosing a lip balm because some can amplify lip dryness.

Michele Green, MD, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist based in New York, noted that lip products, particularly those with certain ingredients and fragrances, could cause dryness. These are particularly harmful for those who apply lip balm multiple times in a day.

Green says, “There is no specific rule regarding how often one should apply lip balm. It should be used when the lips feel dry or chapped and can be reapplied during the day, but some ingredients if overused can increase dryness.”

It is key to understand which ingredients to search for and which to avoid when buying a lip balm.

Green explains why our lips tend to get drier during winter: they don't have oil glands and hence, can't produce moisture.

Considering this, she advises using a lip oil for dry lips.

Lip balms work by creating a barrier between the lips and the environment, facilitating better moisture retention. However, Green notes, these products do not penetrate the lips to increase hydration. Lip oils, on the other hand, do.

According to Green, lip oils penetrate the lips and provide intense hydration, keeping the lips moisturized longer.

She also shared that lip balms containing occlusives such as petroleum jelly or shea butter can prevent moisture loss throughout the day. In addition, using a lip mask at night with hydrating ingredients can provide intense hydration overnight.

For effective lip health, Green recommends products containing Hyaluronic acid, a powerful humectant that holds up to one thousand times its weight in water, increasing moisturization. Other beneficial ingredients include petroleum jelly, shea butter, and beeswax—occlusives that lock in moisture—and Vitamin E as a protective antioxidant.

Additionally, she advises choosing a lip product that contains at least SPF 15, to protect the lips from UV damage.

Green also suggested that using face moisturizers can help keep your lips hydrated, along with the skin surrounding them. These products often contain hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid that can penetrate and be absorbed into the skin.

Staying hydrated by drinking enough water and using a humidifier in your home are additional ways to maintain lip health.

Despite a common tendency to lick one's lips when they are dry, Green warns against it because it can cause the saliva to evaporate faster and further dry out the lips.