Reviewing Health Risks Before Booking a Manicure: Expert Recommendations on Safety

A recent study revealed that using UV nail polish dryers on gel polish can emit radiation that damages skin cell DNA and causes mutations that may lead to skin cancer. Maria Zhivagui, PhD, postdoctoral scholar in the Alexandrov Lab at the University of California San Diego and first author of the study, stated, “Our study describes a potential cancer-risk factor for females that regularly get gel manicures. It is important to weigh the risk, especially for people at higher sensitivity to UV light and susceptibility to cancer.”

While UV dryers for gel manicures have been a controversial topic for years, experts suggest that all types of manicures may carry health risks. Susan Massick, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at The Ohio State University Wexner Medical Center explained, “Health risks associated with getting a manicure include nail infections, skin irritation and skin rashes from chemicals used, and symptoms associated with breathing in the vapors and dust floating in the salons.”

In order to examine the effects of radiation from UV nail dryers, Dr. Zhivagui and her colleagues conducted research on human and mouse cells exposed to the radiation emitted by a common UV nail lamp found in many nail salons across the U.S. The study found that after 20 minutes of exposure to the UV light from the lamp, around 20-30% of the cells died, and some DNA was damaged. Additionally, exposure to the UV nail polish lamp for three consecutive 20-minute sessions led to 65-70% of cell death along with mitochondrial and DNA damage in the remaining cells.

Dr. Zhivagui identified three types of UV light radiation: ultraviolet C (UVC), ultraviolet B (UVB), and ultraviolet A (UVA). The light emitted from nail dryers is typically in the UVA spectrum, which is comparable to tanning beds. The UV rays can penetrate the deeper layer of skin and activate the melanin cells underneath the nail, turning it into dark colors.

Despite the study's findings, Dr. Zhivagui emphasized that it does not prove UV nail lamps cause cancer, and more research is required to assess whether people who get gel manicures are at higher risk of developing skin cancer in comparison to those who don't. Dr. Massick suggested that using UV dryers for gel manicures can increase the risk of skin cancer due to concentrated UVA light used on hands and fingers. But getting a manicure that does not demand UV dryers can also have other health risks, including potential nail infections and paronychia.

Furthermore, other types of manicures, such as acrylics, can harm nail health. According to Dr. Massick, acrylics require filing down one’s real nails, causing thinning or damage. Additionally, nail technicians may need to file real nails even more or use chemical removers like acetone to remove acrylics. As a result, the wear and tear related to acrylics can result in nail thinning and cracking. While acetone and acetate are not known to cause any serious long-term health issues, they may cause the nails to become slightly thinner.

This is, of course, assuming you aren’t breathing in fumes from nail salons for long periods of time.

“Most of the risk from chemical exposure falls on people who are in and around salons daily for long periods of time, such as salon workers and people who live or work in buildings that might be directly attached to or adjacent to a salon,” Dr. Lamplugh explained.

Dr. Lamplugh noted that while there’s nothing inherently unsafe about getting a manicure, there are also no notable health benefits to having your nails done. It ultimately comes down to what you feel most comfortable with.

If you still want to get a manicure despite some of the risks, experts recommend taking some health precautions to protect yourself against the potential effects of UV light and chemical exposures. Some precautions include:

Dr. Massick emphasized that it’s fine to get a manicure for a special occasion or as a gift to yourself, but people should avoid going every week or every three weeks that many people find themselves in. “It’s important to allow your natural nails time to be polish-free for periods of time.” 

If you notice discoloration or thickening of the nail plates or experience pain or swelling around the nails, reach out to a board-certified dermatologist.