Exploring Creativity in the Wilderness with Ronan Bouroullec: Homme Plissé

Exploring the Wilderness of Creativity with Ronan Bouroullec in Homme Plissé By Godfrey Deeny 

Posted on Jan 18, 2024 

This season, Homme Plissé from Issey Miyake worked hand in hand with prominent French design leader Ronan Bouroullec and the result was an unexpectedly joyous collection. 

The collection was showcased within the Palais de Tokyo, where flattened clothes inspired by Ronan Bouroullec's precise sketches were arranged on its curved walls. 

These pieces, many of them cut out like jigsaw puzzles, were at first hard to envisage worn on the human body, until they were modelled by the cast during the show. In creating this unique style, Bouroullec utilises Japanese felt-tip brushes meticulously and subtly resulting in a serene style. 

This suits well with the Miyake fashion line known for its oversized clothing made of plissé polyester. Of note, Ronan has previously worked with the Miyake brand in 2000 designing the renowned concept A-POC store. Much like Bouroullec who hails from Brittany and is known for his poetic practicality in design, this collection felt indulging and evocative but also assured and comforting. 

Some models were seen donned in asymmetrical coats of striking colours – minty green, purpleish mauve – worn above a mix of splendid ribbed shirts, tanks, and tops that displayed Bouroullec's curving brush strokes. There were several coats crafted from a single piece of fabric honouring founder Issey’s preference for sculptural style and using only one beautiful piece of cloth. 

One black model with a highly textured afro hair walked confidently in a Venetian red coat, which he wore above bright orange pants, simply looking stunning. All the pieces in the collection were harmonised with low cut Chelsea boots with quite a bit of ankle visible. It's no surprise that the collection was labelled Immersed in the Wilds of Creativity, for its clothes exuded so much energy and vibrancy. 

Miyake, one of the distinguished Four Masters of post-war Japanese fashion alongside Kenzo Takada, Yohji Yamamoto, and Rei Kawakubo, died in August 2022 at the age of 84 after a distinguished career. However, his brand preserves the strong aesthetic he innovated. This collaboration with Ronan Bouroullec, in fact, is anticipated to be one of the standout shows of the 13-day global menswear season which culminates in Paris this coming Sunday evening. 

Miyake, in his early career, worked under Hubert de Givenchy and produced over 50 sketches each day. He would have undoubtedly appreciated this elegant twist on artistic fashion. Vita artem imitatur. As this collection was brought to life by a team of designers, nobody took a bow at the end. 

However, if they did, they should have shown respect to Miyake San and his distinctive DNA.