Paying Tribute to Howard University: Wales Bonner's Homage

Wales Bonner: A Tribute to Howard University

By Godfrey Deeny

Published Jan 18, 2024

This season, Grace Wales Bonner drew her inspiration from America, focusing on a collection that reflected her time spent researching at Howard University in Washington. This renowned institution was established in 1867 as a theological seminary for black clergymen and has since produced generations of influential black American leaders in fields such as governance, academia, and the arts.

Born in the UK, Wales Bonner's designs have always aimed to reinterpret Western tailoring and fashion through the lens of African and Caribbean culture. Hence, her move to Washington marked a considerable shift in her style. The creative results of this shift were seen in her collection, which stood out in the Paris menswear collections showcased on Wednesday – the second day of the six-day season.

Wales Bonner's designs often appear deceivingly simple, reflecting her clarity of vision and ambition. This was evident in her fluid wrap tuxedo suit, arguably the best in Europe, and her successful collaboration with Savile Row tailors Anderson & Sheppard.

Her collection also included designs with strong collegiate influences; from rowing sweaters bearing 'Howard Crew' to houndstooth baseball jackets embossed with 'WB'. Wales Bonner also continued her successful collaboration with Adidas, a fact clearly visible in her collection with designs like trefoil logo sweatshirts and crocodile embossed leather Originals Superstars sneakers. According to retailers, this partnership with Adidas has resulted in some of the most sought-after sneakers globally.

Interestingly, there were notable black French talents front row at the event, including popular basketballer Tony Parker, and Omar Sy, the star of the popular Netflix series 'Lupin'. The event took place in a wing of the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, an 18th-century college founded by the French Revolution to promote scientific and technical skills.

Wales Bonner impressed with her technical expertise, inventing a new garment, a mix of a safari jacket and duffle coat. She also designed languid gray flannel suits for both genders and reimagined the Canadian coat in denim. Other highlights included Kantha quilt blousons and dusters worn by a meticulously groomed cast, thanks to Lauren Parsons' expert makeup application using premium Sisley cosmetics.

Wales Bonner walked out alongside singer Yasiin Bey after he performed a rap piece on a centre-stage platform during the show. Post-show, she reflected on her design choices. She mentioned incorporating aspects of academic wardrobe, intellectual heritage, and their intersection with hip hop. She was particularly mindful of the thriving rap scene and the blend of sportswear with smart, practical clothing around Howard University. She mentioned how Howard is often referred to as The Mecca, which, according to her, became a place of imagination and inspiration for her collection.