Marc Jacobs Kicks Off NYFW with 40th Anniversary Collection

Marc Jacobs kicks off New York Fashion Week (NYFW) with a 40th-anniversary collection. 

By Roxanne Robinson 

Published on Feb 3, 2024 

In the fashion industry, a handful of New York-based designers have managed to sustain their brands for over four decades. 

This list includes Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger, Anna Sui, and Marc Jacobs. 

At the age of 60, Marc Jacobs - the youngest of the group, celebrated his brand's 40th anniversary a week before the official start of NYFW by showcasing his latest collection. Instead of hosting a grand event, Jacobs chose to keep the show low-key and centered on the attire; a refreshing difference from recent over-the-top fashion shows with their numerous celebrities, influencers, elaborate sets, and premium destination locations for the digital age. 

Today, Jacobs appears to have risen above the need for widespread acclaim and a paparazzi furor. The expansive space of the Park Avenue Armory was simple, with only two single-file rows of seats for attendees - which included the fabulous Debbie Harry. The arrangement of seats was similar to those used in Jacobs's past shows but added an element of proportionality - a theme of this year's show. 

At the top of the runway stood an abnormally large card and chairs set - a 2006 artwork by Robert Therrien. The piece, which could accommodate a 30-foot person, added unexpected intrigue. In the show notes, Jacobs shared some insight into the inspiration behind his collection. He mentioned his "lifelong affair" with the "commonplace" and how his vision remained full of wonder and contemplation about the memorable and the mundane. As the show began, an oversized fifties-era pencil skirt with a bulky, fitted bodice top made its appearance, emphasizing the enormous dimensions of the outfits. 

The outfits were oversized to the point that they seemed to hang off rather than fit the body - an effect compared to paper dolls. The brilliance of these grown-out designs came from how cleverly they were abstracted and exaggerated. The outfits were size-appropriate yet unproportional to the body, creating a unique balance between shrink-sized tops like blazers and hoodies and exaggerated bottoms like skirts and track pants.

Attention-grabbing knit sweaters, a structured pea coat, a black bikini on a cream knit shell with smart Bermuda shorts, a skirt and bralette, and gowns reflected probable commercial successes. There was also a sheer, light white piece adorned with multi-colored gemstones, offering a touch of glamour. 

The collection's hairstyles were also extravagant, with massive retro-teased styles that balanced out the oversized looks. The larger-than-life collection turned the concept of being 'Instagram-able' on its head, appearing to be better suited for real-life appreciation. Outside the Armory, PETA staged another protest against the designer's show, and an additional protest emerged outside of the Americas Society/Council of the Americas on Park Avenue. 

The world, currently filled with absurdities, seemed to find an outlet in Jacobs's whimsical show.