Can Eyelash Growth Serums Deliver Results? Expert Opinion by a Dermatologist.

Eyelash growth serums are currently very popular as everyone wants long, lush, fluttery lashes. However, if you're considering using these products, particularly if you've experienced eyelash loss due to aging, medical conditions, or cosmetic treatments, you may be wondering if they actually work and if they're safe to use regularly. Dermatologists explain that the safety and effectiveness of these relatively new products depends on the type of serum you are using.

According to Cameron Rokhsar, M.D., a double board-certified dermatologist at New York Cosmetic, Skin & Laser Surgery Center, eyelash growth serums are cosmetic products designed to promote the growth and appearance of eyelashes. These serums typically come in the form of a liquid or gel and are applied to the base of the eyelashes, similar to how one would apply eyeliner. The serum contains ingredients that aim to nourish, strengthen and condition the eyelashes, to promote the growth of longer, thicker and fuller lashes.

There are three major types of eyelash growth serums available: Bimatoprost (prescription), over-the-counter lash serums with prostaglandins or peptides, and over-the-counter lash serums with botanical oils, such as castor oil. While Bimatoprost, which is prescription-only, is believed to be the most effective option, serums containing either peptides or plant oils can be found over-the-counter.

Board-certified cosmetic dermatologist Michele Green, M.D., explains that Latisse, or bimatoprost, is the only medication approved by the FDA to grow eyelashes longer and thicker. Bimatoprost is a type of prostaglandin that controls inflammation, blood flow, and blood clot formation. Latisse is prescription-only and requires daily use for at least two months, with visible results shown for 78% of the patients participating in a 16-week study.

For those who would prefer a non-prescription option, some over-the-counter lash serums may contain prostaglandins or peptides, while others may contain various botanical oils for nourishment and hydration. While there is less evidence for their effectiveness, anecdotal evidence shows that these serums can be effective. It is important to note that the efficacy of these serums can vary from person to person and even from product to product. Age may also affect results, with younger individuals potentially experiencing better results than older individuals due to the natural aging process.

Genetics also play a role, according to the expert. 'Those with a genetic tendency for thicker and longer lashes may observe more pronounced results compared to individuals with naturally sparse lashes,' he says. Lastly, 'certain medical conditions or treatments can affect lash growth and potentially impact the effectiveness of eyelash growth serums,' according to Dr. Rokhsar. He continues, 'For example, conditions like alopecia areata or chemotherapy treatments, or even hypothyroidism, can cause temporary or permanent lash loss. In such cases, the effectiveness of serums may be limited.'

There are some risks to be aware of if you're thinking of using an eyelash growth serum, though most are mild and will disappear once you stop using the product (which, to be clear, you should do immediately if you do experience these side effects). 'Eyelash growth serums can have a small risk of side effects like irritation, itchiness, and redness of the eyes and eyelids,' says Dr. Green. 'It is important to avoid getting the serum in the eyes and perform a small patch test if there is a history of sensitivity or allergy.' The expert adds, 'There have been some reports of increased iris pigmentation and darkening of periorbital tissues when using bimatoprost.'

With that in mind, both experts stress the benefits of eyelash growth serum in general. 'Eyelash growth serums can increase the rate of eyelash growth and create fuller-looking, voluminous lashes that are longer,' says Dr. Green. 'Eyelash serums also contain nourishing and hydrating ingredients to promote healthy hair and follicles, helping to reduce damage, breakage, and hair loss. Having healthy and full lashes can make the eyes look rejuvenated and more awake.'

Lastly, if you want to enhance the look of your lashes, 'but find applying false lashes or using mascara daily to be time-consuming, an eyelash growth serum can be a convenient alternative,' says Dr. Rokhsar.

If all of the above has made you curious about eyelash growth serums, there are still a few more things to keep in mind. Firstly, 'OTC eyelash growth serums have not been FDA-tested,' says Dr. Green. 'Thus, their efficacy is anecdotal, and safety has not been clinically tested. It may be worth consulting your physician or dermatologist about receiving a prescription for Latisse, which is currently the only FDA-approved eyelash growth serum.'

Another important point to keep in mind is that how and when you use an eyelash growth serum will make all the difference. 'Eyelash growth serum should be applied on clean lashes free of mascara and makeup,' advises Dr. Green. 'The individual product will have specific instructions that should be followed. Typically, applying the lash serum two to three times a day is recommended. Do not apply the lash serum while wearing contacts, and avoid getting the product in the eyes.'

You should also try to stick as closely as possible to a schedule when applying this serum. 'Consistency is key when using eyelash growth serums,' says Dr. Rokhsar. 'It's often recommended to use the serum regularly and consistently for several weeks or months to see noticeable improvements in lash growth and appearance.'

Not all eyelash growth serums are created equal, and there is a slight risk of side effects from using them, but overall these products are generally safe and can help you to achieve fuller, longer lashes — as long as you stick to a few simple guidelines.