Phoebe Philo finally unveils her highly anticipated collection for her new label.

Fashion designer, Phoebe Philo, presents her much-anticipated collection under her own brand name. The critics are enthusiastic, implying that Philo, former designer for Chloé and Celine, has seamlessly continued her journey as a designer which she had paused six years ago after leaving Celine. With Philo having a minority ownership, her first collection is supported by LVMH. It features ready-to-wear, footwear, and accessories, with an exclusive availability on the Phoebe Philo webstore. 

The collection boasts the characteristic Philo color palette including off-white, oxblood, black, brown, and red. It also maintains the unique mix of masculine and feminine styles that the designer is recognized for; incorporating tailored dresses, knits, draped styles, loose shirts, wide-leg trousers with flat and cinched waists, textured dresses, spacious leather bombers, flight jackets with high collars and cinched waists, cargo items, trench-coats, and a balanced variety of tight-fitting and oversized cuts. It's apparent that pricing for some items reaches extreme levels. 

Some items are marked as “price on application” while a few displaying staggering price tags, a “hand knitted T-shirt dress in iridescent stucco” priced at £13,000, or an XL Cabas bag priced at £6,200, for instance. However, a number of items are priced lower (still high-end) such as a “hand-combed embroidered dress” at £2,600, a scarf top at £1,400, a slate grey pinstripe shirt at £800, and sunglasses starting at £340. The entire line has been two years in the making and is launching at a time when both the fashion and luxury sectors are facing significant challenges. However, the recent results from Hermès suggest that the ultra-luxury end of the market continues to flourish. Some ultra-luxury items from Philo's new collection have already sold out. This launch consists of the first (and largest) of three releases, or 'Edits' as Philo refers to them, for this season. There are two seasonal collections planned each year, each consisting of three 'Edits'. 

Although launched during the autumn/winter season and including coats, the collection's 150 individual pieces seem relatively season-neutral. The collection mostly lacks the unfeasible conceptual pieces that are typically seen on the runway, barring perhaps the combed viscose shaggy coats that take as long to construct as some couture pieces. Of particular significance are the shoes and accessories which is where most women will connect with the brand. The oversized totes may come at extreme prices but simpler shoulder bags and the Small Kit Cabas (imagine a scaled-down tote) are retailing at £2,600-£3,200. In footwear, there are squared-toed heeled pumps, loafers, ankle boots, and Jodhpur boots with platforms with prices ranging from £850 to £1,250. To sum up, it's an exuberant, discreet luxury. It's akin to The Row but with an added touch of Phoebe Philo magic.