LFW Sunday: JW Anderson's Celebration of Nostalgia

LFW Sunday: Praise for the Past with JW Anderson

By Godfrey Deeny. Published on Feb 18, 2024.

JW Anderson paid homage to a bygone era in a past-themed fashion show held in a fittingly refurbished, mock Victorian swimming pool from the 1930s. This show, presented amidst the resurgence of songs from almost half a century ago, brought nostalgia to the forefront in a remarkably modern way. From the graying wigs worn by the models, reminiscent of just-removed curlers, to footwear reflecting Hush Puppies' style, the celebration of the past was evident. This, however, did not mean that the clothes were dated. Anderson's mark was clear as he continued to redefine fashion standards with his innovative designs.

The designs included brilliantly done cable-knit tops and Centurion-style mini cocktails, made with three-inch thick strands of wool. Then came retro mohair dresses, reminiscent of chess pieces and completed with a sweatshirt trim. Both of these designs are likely to prompt new trends and find imitations in high street brands, showcasing Anderson's significance in British fashion.

Anderson's collection also featured ironic twists on classic wear like camisole tops and underwear styled after Marks & Spencer’s range, in hues of inky blue and ecru, adorned with attractive tiny bows— a modern take on 1960s conservatism. His intention was expressed through invites that featured a herringbone Donegal Tweed fabric sample. This appeared on several large coats, with shoulders nearly thrice the size of the models wearing them, and sleeves stretching down to the ankles. A nod to an era when individuals bought fabric and made their own clothes using a John Lewis pattern. 

The show took an exciting turn with stunning sweater dresses, adorned with grosgrain ribbons and bunting, followed by a variety of semi-sheer chiffon cocktails encapsulated by chiffon tubes. Speaking about his inspiration, Anderson referenced eccentric British culture, citing the unusual TV show 'Last of the Summer Wine'. His designs reimagined familiar objects into something new, much like a hat turned into a wig or a coat with its lining ripped off. 

The show included striking sculpted leather jackets and raincoats, showcased under an enormous crest bearing the Latin phrase Fiat Secundum Verbum Tuum — "Let it be done according to your word". The rapid show was accompanied by a unique soundtrack, a fusion of Brian Eno from rock nostalgia band Roxy Music, and Essaie Pas.

On the whole, Anderson's show proved to be the main attraction with celebrities like Alexa Chung, Halima Aden, actress Ashley Young, and ex-England and Liverpool FC center forward Daniel Sturridge in attendance. Thus, the show also hinted at nostalgia for a different time in the world of football.