Following his heart: Gucci's Sabato De Sarno

Sabato De Sarno, the creative director at Gucci, championed the mantra of 'Follow Your Heart' in the season's collection, showcasing a trend-setting, appealing, and modish line. Contrary to notions that the Florence-rooted brand may be faltering, this collection underscores the brand's strength, with De Sarno sticking to his unique, purple-hued vision for Gucci.

This range was a fine blend of luxury and audacity: the textures seemed more exquisite than those favoured by preceding creative director Alessandro Michele, enhancing the overall opulent atmosphere. The runway was dominated by pieces inspired by intimate attire - slip dresses, threw-on cocktail dresses, and sensual lingerie. "Seek a small subversive gesture," De Sarno proposed, that's precisely the spirit he encapsulated in this show.

The artistic craftsmanship displayed was surgical and sometimes suggestive; the skirts, coatdresses, and cabans were high-thigh cuts. The blouses were largely unbuttoned, revealing at least a dozen bras. The footwear comprised platform loafers with horsebit buckles, and riding boots embracing Gucci's equestrian heritage.

The runway was erected at Fonderia Carlo Macchi, a rustic foundry in Milan's northern part. This demonstrative platform highlighted the model's elongated legs. The show commenced with a safari-style blazer, just longer than the accompanying miniskirt, and matching thigh boots. For evening wear, De Sarno put together a collection of exuberantly sequin-covered evening coats paired with pink sequined cocktails.

Complementing the clothing line was an assortment of stylish, tough gold accessories; ranging from retro cat-eye acetate sunglasses, chunky bracelets to elegant pieces of costume jewelry. Another striking highlight was the collection of beautiful new bags, including a nappa leather GG Milano with a perforated logo and an equestrian-themed half-moon shaped bag.

This exhilarating show concluded with De Sarno taking an extended bow while receiving immense applause from Gucci and Kering staff along with a host of admired celebrities. Although Gucci's financial performance slipped to €9.9 billion in 2023, a decline of 2%, the house seems to reclaim its remarkable momentum, thanks to De Sarno's unwavering vision and creative dominance.

There is an increased anticipation surrounding his reign, even before he marks one year at the helm. Kering has openly supported De Sarno, with store launches in New York and brand promotion in London and Milan. Summarily, despite facing critiques, Gucci seems to be on a promising path of expansion under De Sarno's watch.