Jean-Paul Gaultier Haute Couture: A Harmonious Alliance with Simon Rocha

The newly forged alliance between Jean-Paul Gaultier, enfant terrible of Paris fashion, and Simon Rocha, Irish-born high priestess of tough romanticism, is stunning. In their recent haute couture collection, Rocha's riffs on Jean-Paul’s signature style harmonize with her personal touch of cool, sensual nostalgia. Jean-Paul expressed his delight with the fusion, praising Rocha’s ability to infuse humor, emotion and wit into his designs.

This collection is the fifth in Gaultier couture by a guest designer, following entries by Chitose Abe, Glenn Martens, Olivier Rousteing and Haider Ackermann. However, Rocha’s take seems the most consistent in mirroring Gaultier’s cool vibe of laidback grandeur. The collection begins with an almost illusory sheer metallic organza crinoline, displaying hand-painted motifs of starbursts and serpents. This marrying of styles continues throughout the collection, leading to pieces like a silk duchesse mega-laced-up corset dress with trailing suspenders and a cut-out back billowing with tulle, making for a fashion marriage made in heaven.

Rocha’s signature witty touches pervade the collection, from hand-painted organza tattoos to red shamrock crystal bra designs. She conjures up a naval female seductress with a sailor’s cap, uniquely paired with a mini dress, complete with ruffled bra and crystal stitched tulle ribbons. The collection becomes more enchanting with a slimline, ivory silk organza bustle dress adorned with embroidered lace feathers. This collaborative endeavor seems to have invigorated Gaultier’s Paris atelier with Rocha’s designs, such as an archival style green/black taffeta coat with a petal-like conical bra, complemented by a splendid corset dress embellished with numerous strands of baroque pearls.

Rocha speaks highly of her partnership with Jean-Paul. She appreciated the full autonomy granted and was personally motivated by Gaultier’s positive reception of the collection. Rocha describes the experience as amazing in helping her explore and embrace the female form in her designs. The event successfully paid an admirable tribute to the métier of couture, matching a rock-and-roll soundtrack with the aura of traditional couture.

Rocha's ventures into the secrets and possibilities of couture atelier were evidently rewarding. The experience of working with a couture atelier was described by Rocha as "incredible, it's artisanal", adding, "it feels like a dream to be able to incorporate historic techniques into modern designs”. The uniqueness of this show has been well appreciated, claiming the title as the most original couture show among over thirty official shows in four days. A commendable accomplishment for a Paris debut.