Pierpaolo Piccioli Steps Down as Designer at Valentino

Designer Pierpaolo Piccioli is leaving Valentino after over a decade in charge, in a shock announcement made public Friday afternoon.

“Maison Valentino and Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli are announcing their joint decision to end their collaboration,” the Rome-based maison said Friday in a release.

The news comes barely nine months after giant French luxury group Kering acquired a 30% stake in Valentino, with a public intention to eventually acquire full control.

“A new creative organization for the Maison will be announced soon,” the house said in its bombshell release. No new successor has been named.

The news means that Piccioli’s final collection was staged inside Karl Lagerfeld’s famed former mansion on rue de l’Université in Paris this spring. Perhaps presaging his departure, the entire collection was made in black.

Piccioli has been creative director of Valentino for over 16 years, for the first eight jointly with Maria Grazia Chiuri, and after that solely in charge, leading the marque to be one of the half dozen most distinguished in haute couture.

Piccioli has significantly shaped the Maison’s trajectory with his vision, dedication, and innovative spirit, influencing a pivotal chapter in the company’s history, Valentino stressed in its statement.

“I am grateful to Pierpaolo for his role as creative director and for his vision, commitment and creativity that have brought the Maison Valentino to what it stands for today,” said Jacopo Venturini, CEO Valentino.

Founded in 1960 by designer Valentino Garavani, the house was acquired by Mayhoola, an investment fund controlled by the Qatari royal family in 2012, leading to a period of heavy capital expenditure in its retail chain and rapid growth.

“We extend our deepest gratitude to Pierpaolo for writing an important chapter in the history of the Maison Valentino. His contribution over the past 25 years will leave an indelible mark,” Rachid Mohamed Rachid, Chairman of Valentino.

The news comes after several years of rumors that Piccioli’s tenure might be at risk. Widely regarded as a brilliant designer, Piccioli was not perhaps the most commercially excellent of fashion creator. Ultimately regarded as being more in love with his art than his merchandise.

“Not all stories have a beginning or an end, some live a kind of eternal present that shines so bright that it won’t produce any shadows. I’ve been in this company for 25 years, and for 25 years I’ve existed and I’ve lived with the people who have woven the weaves of this beautiful story that is mine and ours. Everything existed and exists thanks to the people I met, with whom I worked, with whom I shared dreams and created beauty, with whom I built something that belongs to all, and that remains immutable and tangible,” said Piccioli, who worked directly as an accessories designer for Signor Valentino, before eventually succeeding him.

“This heritage of love, dreams, beauty and humanity, I carry it with me, today and forever.

This is the beauty that we have created: life, hope, opportunity and gratitude, and my people, my heart, and the love that gives you all the possibilities of the world, especially those that you could not imagine alone. Thanks to Mr. Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti who have blessed me with their trust, thanks to every single person who made this possible in one way or another, it was a privilege and an honor to share my journey, and my dreams, with you,” added Piccioli in Friday’s release.

Maintaining a tradition in the world of luxury, bad news generally happens on Friday evening.

That said, given the ruthless rules of today's luxury business, Piccioli had a very long reign - in a prestigious game of fashion creators.