The Pursuit of Excellence: Alaïa's Unmatched Legacy

The Exceptional Alaïa

Article by Godfrey Deeny

Date: January 23, 2024

Pieter Mulier's latest ready-to-wear collection for the house of Alaïa blurs the line between ready-to-wear and couture, presenting an awe-inspiring array of garments. The sublime collection was showcased halfway through the Paris haute couture season at the Alaïa boutique on the bustling rue Marignan.

Mulier's dramatic designs included silhouettes that were innovative yet always refined, exemplifying top-tier fashion. The collection was displayed to a select group of around 60 people in three closely-knit showings. The striking designs included tunics, form-fitting cocktails, and jumpsuits with billowing legs, all fashioned from multiple strands of twisted merino wool.

Mulier's cutting styles evoked a sense of French Revolutionary drama, with ensembles such as femme fatale coats, asymmetrical dresses, and majestic denim harem pants. The use of wool was extensive, featuring in items like cocoon coats and puffball wrist accessories paired with sleek cocktail dresses and energetic tutus. A minimalist highwayman coat brought out reminiscences of Alaïa's own styles, making one feel as if the master was still present. Mulier's bravery in exploring fresh design territory was rewarded by an audible round of applause for a rippling accordion pleat dress in deep blue.

The atmosphere was a combination of artistic, intellectual, and sexy vibes, executing a rare kind of balance. The models radiated enthusiasm, appreciating the importance of the collection and transmitting that energy to the audience who visibly absorbed this energy. Mulier stressed the importance of Alaïa being more than just clothes, citing it as being intertwined with life and togetherness.

The assumption that Mulier has the perfect job, having access to the deep-rooted DNA of Azzedine Alaïa's four-decade fashion legacy, is deceptive. With the difficult task of aligning his designs with the concrete ideas people have about Alaïa, Mulier successfully embodied the spirit of Alaïa in a ready-to-wear collection in Paris, making it a standout collection of the year so far.